Day 91: Fireworks
July 4; Mile 1129-1153
Despite the low mileage the day before, I ended up sleeping in and didn’t start hiking until after 7. I looked ahead on the map to see where I might camp that night, and noticed that Donner Ski Ranch was just out of reach – 24 miles away. I’d heard that hikers got free beer when they stopped by, and that there would be fireworks over the lake that night for the 4th. But with such a late start, there was no way I’d get there before dark. I hoped I’d at least be close enough to see the fireworks, though.
I walked through slopes blanketed in balsamroot, and every time the sun shone around the clouds the air was thick with the smell of warm greenery. There were clumps of lupine mixed in, and the occasional paintbrush plant glowed orange in the morning light. As I stopped to filter water, I talked to another hiker who called the scenery a “riot of color.”
The trail led through multiple ski resorts: Alpine Meadows, Squaw Valley, Donner. I stopped for lunch at the second resort and ate beside a dormant ski lift while gazing out across the valleys below and Tahoe in the distance.
After fields of flowers, the trail led up to an actual ridge walk – surprisingly uncommon for a “crest” trail – where the wind buffeted me on my way past Tinker Knob. I was lost in thought, when suddenly my foot slid out from under me and I slammed my hip onto the rocky ground. Dazed, I checked that nothing was bleeding and unclipped my unwieldy pack before getting to my feet. That was going to be a big bruise tomorrow.
At lunch I’d realized that I was making better time than expected, and I began to hope that I could make it to the bar for my free beer. I flew along the gentle trail as the hours melted away. It would be my longest day on trail so far, but the promise of real food pushed me forward.
I reached the road at 7pm after 24 miles of hiking. Ten minutes later I was at the bar, where I spotted four hikers that I’d met at the trail magic the day before. They’d gone in to Truckee for the day to see a parade and resupply, and they had a lot of questions for me about the holiday since they were from Sweden, Germany, and Belgium.
We left around 8:15 and hiked another half mile up the trail to a climber’s path. It led to the top of Mount Stephens, where we set up our tents in the gathering gloom and then watched the fireworks over Donner Lake. They’d brought hot dogs to celebrate, and we cooked them in our little titanium pots as the show began. The fireworks exploded over the lake miles away, and the sound came several seconds later.
I’d spent three whole months on trail, but I had many more miles to go before I’d be home.
11 Comments
Kate
You made it! I’m so glad you got fireworks, food, and, of course, free beer. What a set of incentives, and what a great accomplishment to do 24 miles, especially after not starting at the crack of dawn.
Is it the same Donner as in the infamous Donner Pass?
Dov
I believe it is!
chasingalpenglow
Indeed – and I learned the party of folks were from Springfield, Illinois of all places
Norene Lewis
What a happy Independence Day memory… after a 24-mile hike… one you’ll never forget. Of course, your entire adventure seems full off never-to-be-forgotten moments… with this detailed blog to keep those memories clear. Good going on all fronts!
chasingalpenglow
Oh for sure, I sometimes try to remember all my camp spots in order; I’m very glad that I got into the habit of photographing them or else a few would be lost forever
Sheila
Nice that they had free beer and fireworks to celebrate your biggest (in miles) day so far! I’m sure you will continue to break your own personal “biggest day” record a few more times over the next month or two. I haven’t commented on your blog in a while, but please know that I check for updates several times a day and think of you often! On Saturday, we’ll be hiking about 10 miles on the PCT — south from Stevens Pass to Hope Lake, with a CHS group. Perhaps we’ll be meeting you with some “magic” at Stevens Pass in 6-8 weeks (?) We can’t wait for you to be within driving distance of “home” again 🙂 <3
chasingalpenglow
A beautiful area! Hope the hike went well, and looking forward to seeing you somewhere on the trail!
Dov
Happy belated Freedom Day! Fireworks over the lake sounds just fabulous, plus a free beer tugging you along the trail. You look *very* pleased with yourself in that photo.
Check out all that Balsom root (or Mules’ Ear, not sure which). Plant cover is always so nice to look at while on trail.
chasingalpenglow
Ohh yes I was very proud that I actually made it there, even with a massive bruise forming from when I fell
Ray
Karen, your dispatches are outpacing my keeping up with them . . . your legs (and fingetrs) must be a blur. Wonderful news all ’round, of course. Don’t Western wildflowers blow you away. The color vibrancy is sometimes too much to believe. And I’ll add my vote to the staying power of free beer as one of life’s best incentives . . . although I’ve seen rather dubious achievements in its name. Take care. Hard to believe you’re on the downslope of your adventure.
chasingalpenglow
Hahah! Hopefully this achievement wasn’t too dubious, and more salubrious instead 😉