Day 87-90: Tahoe Rim

June 30 – July 3; Mile 1069-1129

Day 87

I woke up to a layer of dirt in the morning. Sigh. I packed up and hiked away from the beautiful lake, skirting around melt water ponds before climbing up toward Carson Pass. I passed through fields of wildflowers on my way to the false summit, and then I got a view of the two snow fields that I’d read about. People said they’d used spikes and ice axes, but they didn’t look too bad from a distance.

Up close the snow was perfect: still firm since it was early, but the top was softened by the sun and allowed my shoes to grip better. I made it across just fine with just poles. I was glad I’d sent my spikes home.

The trail dropped down toward the highway and passed hordes of day hikers – granted it was 9:30am, but on a Thursday. Several folks asked if I was doing the PCT and when I had started. I ended up chatting with one guy who had done the trail in 2018, and we compared wildlife encounters and gushed about the High Sierras.

When I reached the road there was a building for the forest service, and people outside were setting up a grill. They asked if I was thruhiking and then offered to make me a cheeseburger if I waited for them to finish setting up. Otherwise if I was in a rush I could take some fruit and donuts to go. I certainly wasn’t in a rush.

The building had seats in the shade, plus coolers with cold drinks and snacks for the hikers! I sipped on a root beer and ate some fresh fruit until my burger was ready. It was pure bliss – the first trail magic since leaving the desert. Not long after I was joined by the Blue Crew and Fun Fact! We spent over an hour just lounging and eating, watching the day hikers head up the trail.

Around noon I decided I should get going and climbed a short way up to my first view of Lake Tahoe. The grassy slopes and waving wildflowers were idyllic. I passed a family hiking and tossed out the usual “have a nice hike.” The little boy pointed his stick at me and said “You have a long way to go.”

Next I passed snow-fed waterfalls and cool rock formations. I was loving NorCal so far: the tread was easier, the climbs shorter, the views dramatic and exposed. It wasn’t too hot – yet. And there was water everywhere without turning the trail into a river.

I stopped for a short break and realized my wallet had gotten soaked through when my water bottle leaked on my pack the night before. I lay out my permit to dry in the sun, and as I was packing up to leave I knocked over my water bottle and spilled water all over it again. Great.

By the time I reached Shower Lake I’d been sitting in the shade for almost an hour watching paper dry, and so I was too chilled to jump in. I hiked past several Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) thruhikers before reaching the steep descent to my camp spot. I had a great view of Lake Tahoe from inside my tent, plus a stream nearby for washing my clothes and feet. About an hour later the Blue Crew showed up, and we sat around eating dinner together as the shadows lengthened and the air grew chill. They were headed into town tomorrow while I was planning to stop at the Echo Lake Chalet on trail and continue my march northward.

Day 88 – Canada Day

I woke up around 5:45 as the person next to me packed up their tent. The sky over Lake Tahoe was pink, the water violet. I drowsily admired the view before rolling over and going back to sleep.

I finally left around 7 and descended toward the Echo Summit and highway. The trail entered the first burn area in a long time. It looked like the trees had all transitioned to autumn three months early.

I waved goodbye to the Blue Crew as they tried to hitch to Tahoe. Then I started climbing up past boarded up cabins – empty of skiers – to the high point before dropping down to Echo Lake.

I found the chalet and wandered around in hungry awe. They had fresh fruit. And vegetables. And other real food that wasn’t convenience store junk. I bought a salad, yogurt, chocolate milk, and two ice creams for lunch – plus avocados, peaches, plums, and some other snacks for the next day.

I watched weekend and TRT backpackers load up and head out as I devoured my minor feast. When I finally sidled back onto the trail after almost two hours, I marveled at the size of the packs that I passed. There were day hikers, trail runners, dogs – including one eating from a ziploc bag of food almost as big as itself – other PCT hikers and TRT folks. On the Friday of the July 4th weekend, the Desolation Wilderness was anything but.

After a few miles I reached Lake Aloha. Its sapphire surface was broken by little jutting islands of granite, and in the distance the snow-covered slopes fed their icy melt water into its maw. It was hot and sunny, and only 1pm – plenty of time for my hair to dry. This lake deserved a full submersion.

I pulled off my sweaty clothes and waded onto a submerged rock shelf. A stiff breeze blew across the water, sending goosebumps up my arms and legs. I took three breaths for courage and then dove into the blue depths. The cold water squeezed my chest tight, but I’d been in much colder up in the High Sierras.

I lay in the sun with two other hikers as we ate lunch (my second for the day). I’d seen one of them before on the day I went over Forester Pass, but when I introduced myself to the other one, he asked “You mean _the_ Stormy?”

He turned to Pickles and a look of realization dawned suddenly. “Your parents paid for our dinner in Agua Dulce!”

I joked that they were trail angels in training, to which the new hiker – Tumble – said, “Well they passed their training!”

We parted ways after lunch, and I made my way around the lake and started the climb up to Dicks Pass. The trail was a jumble of granite rocks and boulders, but the views as I climbed were fantastic. I passed several deep blue lakes – Heather, Susie, Gilmore, and Half Moon – before reaching the final ridge traverse up to Dicks Pass. This was the last time the PCT would cross above 9000’.

I chatted with some TRT hikers as I filtered water at the top, and then I began the descent toward camp. I passed Dicks Lake and most of Lake Fontanillis before reaching the camp spot at the outlet. I had planned to go another half mile, but told myself if the view was good I’d stop early. I set up my tent so that I could watch the sun set on the snowy peaks from inside my sleeping bag. Then I made dinner: my first ramen meal of the PCT. I’d been on trail almost three months, plus it was Canada Day. What better way to celebrate than the quintessential thru-hiking meal.

Day 89

I had plans the next day to meet Dov’s aunt Brenda at Barker Pass, where she’d whisk me away to her wonderful home for a hot shower and home-cooked food.

The trail was easy and my pack was mostly empty, and so I made great time – over 16 miles before 3pm. I’d even stopped for a lengthy lunch break to slice up my avocado and add it to my two remaining English muffins.

When I reached the pass there was someone doing trail magic for the holiday weekend! A 2019 thruhiker named Fafa had brought chicken burritos, fruit, and cold drinks. I spent the next 3 hours hanging out with other hikers before Brenda came and picked me up, and we paused on the way home so that I could dip my feet in Lake Tahoe. We had a delicious dinner with chicken, ravioli, and salad. It was so great to see her again and spend time with some of my future family-in-law.

Day 90

I bought my food resupply in the morning and then made us an omelet for breakfast. Brenda left to take Koda to a class, and I spent the next few hours sorting food, calling my sister for her birthday, repacking gear, and writing. I got back to the trail around 3:30, and Fafa was there again with more drinks and fruit. She said I looked clean.

I started back up the trail, making it five miles through the forested slopes before setting up my tent for the night. There was a long exposed ridge line ahead, and it was quite windy that evening, so I decided to cross it in the morning.

I ate dinner with the two German women camped there – Shutterfly and Babs – and discussed Seattle and backpacking without our partners. Then they built a rock cairn over their food bag – I’ve never seen that strategy before. We wished each other goodnight and retreated into our tents.