Day 37-38: 419
May 11-12; Mile 406-440
Day 37
I woke to a tent covered in ice and water bottles frozen solid; it had been the coldest night on trail so far. I was glad that I’d dropped down to about 5000′ of elevation – anything higher and my sleeping bag would have been at its temperature limit. It was an easy decision for me to wait until the sun had burned away the frost before finally leaving camp close to 8am.
I hiked through pleasant pine forest high on a ridge and had views north toward Antelope Valley and the Tehachapi mountain range beyond. The trail felt wide-open and airy, and the steady grade was a welcome change after scaling Mt Baden-Powell’s steep slopes. I had cell reception for the first time since leaving Wrightwood, and I was able to talk to Dov. Plus, I learned that Kelsey and Lauren were only 2 days ahead of me! I’d thought they would be a week ahead by now, but there was a chance that I’d meet them by Kennedy Meadows. Things were looking up, and I scurried down the trail.
The next water source was a fire station with a spigot nearby, and hikers were bunched up making lunch and resting. I could go hours without seeing someone on trail, but then I’d come across a horde at the water sources. After my own lunch and rest break, I filled up for the 13-mile carry. My right shin was starting to hurt, and by the time I reached camp I was hobbling from the pain. As I contemplated what I’d do if it didn’t improve, my thoughts of course went straight to the worse-case scenario. Lying in my tent at night surrounded by strangers, it was easy to think in terms of doom and gloom. But the possibility of going home early didn’t fill me with the same feelings of failure that it had a few weeks ago.
That night I wrote in my journal: “This isn’t the end. I just hope my shin magically heals overnight.”
Day 38
I didn’t bother to set an alarm since I was sleeping three feet from another tent. I awoke to the sound of deflating air mattresses, and lay sloth-like in my bag as the couple packed and left. Feeling certain it must be close to 8 again, I finally checked the time as I started to pack – it was only 6:15 am.
I took it easy, my legs cold and stiff. I was worried about my shin flaring up in pain again, but it stayed at just a slight hum of discontent. I deliberately hiked slower than normal to give my body a rest, and it seemed to help.
The trail began its gradual descent toward Agua Dulce, passing through clumps of wildflowers buzzing with bees. I enjoyed the colors and the return of the desert warmth, and soon I was at the ranger station relaxing at a picnic table in the shade. I even treated myself to another hot lunch.
About an hour later I left the shade and entered the oven. Under the relentless sun I spent a good deal of time staring at the dirt as I walked, and I was intrigued by its ever-changing colors: blinding white, bright orange, gold, tan, dull reddish-brown, and even dark gray. The surrounding hills were each adorned in one of the colors, and all of them were speckled green with the springtime growth.
I reached camp before 4pm, after hiking over 15 miles at a sedate pace. I hadn’t gotten to camp this early in weeks! The only downside was that the camping area was devoid of shade; I lay in my tent and sweated in the sun’s heat until it finally cooled off enough to think again. It took another hour or so before it was cool enough to make dinner.
And who should appear as I was leaving my tent, but Tinder! Apparently she and DD had been a few miles behind me this whole time, not a day ahead like I’d thought. We chatted a bit, but she still had 4 miles to go to make it to the KOA. Still feeling like being social, I asked the lady camped near me if she’d like some company for dinner, and I ended up having a pleasant chat with Locomotive. She told me about some of the folks she’d been hiking near, including one person who’d gotten the trail name Apache after getting sick from the Apache Spring water. He had been working remotely the past month without anyone realizing he was also hiking the PCT, and had only just now applied for a leave of absence.
I was grateful for the company and equally thankful that my shin had stopped hurting. If I had to saunter my way toward Canada at a leisurely pace to avoid injury, then that’s what I’d do. When I injured my knee in February, a five-month hike suddenly seemed impossible, and my immediate goal became to stay on trail until my birthday. If I could stay on trail for two weeks, that would still be the longest backpacking trip to date. Thanks to two months of solid PT and hiking slowly from the start, I had now passed a different birthday milestone: mile 419. And I was still headed north.
12 Comments
kate
Ah, there’s the beaming smile back again!
My friend Chuck was the one who taught me that it takes a very special person to appreciate the beauty of the desert; when there is not a lot of greenery to cover it up, the other colors are easier to see, but many people only see the lack of green and the presence of brown. I’m glad you are seeing all the colors.
I did get a bit nervous reading the part about your shin. I hope it stays good from here on out. Congratulations on the birthdate milestone. Four hundred nineteen is an impressive amount of mileage.
I also love looking at the little blue inchworm on the Mapshare, creeping up the backbone of SoCal. Happy Trails!
Dov
And the map samples are getting further and further apart as she gains trail stamina! Before you know it they’ll be these great big zigzags 😀
chasingalpenglow
I just wish that inchworm were trending more north than west… soon enough
Dov
The desert certainly has a stark alien beauty, but I feel a little goes a long way. At some point I feel “this is good. Time for some green now.” On the other hand it’s just fabulous when it rains. Different strata get revealed in exposed rocks, and there’s this feeling of great freshness and energy.
It’s a horse race play by play! “There’s Stormy, overtaking Tinder, neck and neck with Locomotive, catching up to Kelsey!’
I hope your shins adapt to trail life, and I’m very glad to hear your knee and IT band have not been causing serious problems. It would have been so heartbreaking if you hadn’t been able to hike after all that preparation.
chasingalpenglow
Yep, I feel that after 500+ miles I’m ready for the Sierras and abundant water. Just one last section remaining!
Dov
Oh yeah, abundant water is a very good point. It’s going to be really nice not having to carry more than a liter at a time.
Therese
Your photos are stunning! The first one in particular captures so many beautiful and unique aspects of the terrain that you have been traversing these past six weeks. I hope that your shin pain eases up soon, and that you’re able to continue on your way unimpeded. I like reading that you keep running into people that you’ve gotten to know on the trail – the solitude of the mountains must be wonderful, but it’s also good to have some company every now and then. Wishing you all the best as you march through the Mojave. xoxo
chasingalpenglow
Thanks! I certainly enjoy seeing them again as well.
Tom
I love the feeling I get from your photographs that I am almost there with you – emphasis on almost, since we know there is no conceivable way I could be on that part of the trail with you. Especially the shot where you can see what looks like a wisp of smoke flowing ever upward and to the right, but is likely the trail leading off along the mountainsides into oblivion. I admire your tenacity, but also your good sense to ease up on the speed pedal to let your shin try to heal. Missing the role of trail angel already! Good luck getting through the rest of the desert miles.
Lots of love, Dad
chasingalpenglow
Thank you! Have a nice time on the east coast!!
Sheila
Congratulations on reaching mile #419! my birthday mile would be easier to reach, being only “85”, but somehow I don’t think that’s going to happen in this lifetime — at least not in that desert! maybe SOBO one of these days 😉
Now you can start going after powers of two, or maybe prime numbers (which 419 is!), or numbers in the Fibonacci sequence! (counting used to be how I would try to distract Sean on a hike) — in case you were wondering, your next Fibonacci number is “610” 🙂 I suspect that you have passed 2**9 by now, so you can also set your sights on your first kilo-mile 🙂
keep on smiling, Stormy!
–Sheila
chasingalpenglow
I bet if you consider 805 to be your birthday mile, then you probably crossed it during your Big Seki trip!