Day 32-34: Wrightwood
May 6-8; Mile 351-369
Day 32
It was still dark as I packed up my gear the next morning. I left behind several sleeping cowboy campers and walked alone toward the sunrise. It was only 6 am, but it was already warm on the shadeless slope. An hour later I passed Juniper and Cable Guy as they were putting away their tents. They passed me at a fast clip as I was sitting down to make breakfast, and that was the last time I saw them; Juniper was trying to make it to town with enough time to buy food and mail a box further up trail.
An hour later I was just walking around a switchback when I heard a slow rattling that grew faster and louder. This snake was not going to politely vacate the trail. I backed up and waited for a minute before walking around the bend once more. The rattling was loud and immediate, and the snake was still coiled and ready to strike.
I tried reasoning with it. “Please move, I need to keep hiking.”
It just flicked its tongue down and up, rattling all the while. I backed up out of sight once more and gave it time to consider my plea. When the snake still hadn’t budged, I tried throwing a rock at it. No luck. Heaving a great sigh, I backed around the switchback for the third time and moved ten feet back down the trail. Then I clambered up through the bushes and emerged onto the trail past the snake. “Screw you,” I called to it before continuing up the path.
Eventually the climb leveled off and the trail passed through chilly pine forest once more. The colder temperatures meant I could hike without my usual afternoon siesta, and I messaged my parents to let them know that I was running ahead of schedule. I was passed by several folks that I’d seen at Cajon Pass, and then I ran into Piper – someone I’d met at the hostel in Big Bear Lake – heading south. She was hiking with someone that wanted to do the long climb in a downhill direction.
Water was hard to come by in this section, but I’d rationed enough that I could make it to the trailhead without needing to detour down to Guffy Spring. And then I came across two glittering, brilliant reservoirs of water used by the ski area. It seemed almost cruel to have so much water right on trail but off-limits to hikers.
But I had a cold root beer waiting for me ahead, and so I hastened downhill past the hibernating chair lifts and toward the two figures standing near the road. We gave a ride to another thru-hiker named Nuggets – a name freshly given at Cajon Pass, I’m sure you can guess why – and then it was time for the most cherished of town activities: showering. I emerged from the bathroom in a clean dress that my mom had brought for me, feeling (and looking) like a new person. We walked to the Grizzly Cafe for dinner, and I ordered two entrees for myself. The server cautioned me that the salad I’d ordered for my second entree was “pretty big,” and I just smiled and said that would be great. I may not have looked like a thru-hiker – all clean and in a flowered dress – but I sure could eat like one, and I finished off both of the dishes in a state of caloric bliss.
Day 33 and 34
The next two days were a much-needed rest and a wonderful visit with my parents. In between town chores – buying and repacking food, writing more blog posts, laundering my filthy clothes – we spent time playing cards, eating at the Grizzly Cafe, watching the Kentucky Derby, and relaxing amidst the refreshing mountain air. I was able to check the mountain forecast for Mt Baden-Powell, and planned my next few days accordingly. And most importantly, my parents had brought two pairs of shoes for me to try on so that I could finally retire the worn-out, hole-filled, wonderful shoes that had saved my hike.
11 Comments
Dov
So much for polite rattlers on the trail 😛 Sounds like you clean up nicely and don’t have the scraggly, thousand yard stare of some thru hikers. So long, custom ventilation! You did your duty well.
chasingalpenglow
I’m sure I’ll have some new custom ventilation before tooooo much longer. The new shoes already have 85 miles on them!!
peggy
I want to second Kenny’s admiration of your gift of descriptive language. I am just catching up on the last half dozen posts after a hiatus of distraction here, but it sounds like you’re hitting your stride. So glad the new shoes feel good and aren’t having breaking-in problems. Hiking solo on the PCT isn’t as solo as it sounds …like Dov’s Great Divide adventure, it’s a great way to find wonderful comrades.
chasingalpenglow
Thank you!! And I hope the fire danger near you continues to abate
Therese
It was great being able to spend a few days with you up in the mountains at Wrightwood! As usual, the parent unit was no match for your card-playing skills, but win or lose, it’s always a good time. I thoroughly enjoyed our meals together at the Grizzly Café, and was wowed by all the thru-hikers who just kept rolling into town. Such a determined and friendly bunch of people, not to mention strong and courageous. We got a small taste of what 39 degrees with 30 mph wind gusts feels like at 6:30 in the morning on the PCT and are in awe of you and all your fellow backpackers. I’m quite glad that Mother Nature had the good sense to give rattlesnakes noisy tails and think that you handled that stubborn one deftly. Best wishes for the journey ahead! Love ya! xoxo
Norene Lewis
So great that you and Tom could be there to support Karen’s efforts…and meet some of the thru-hikers we’re reading about in person.
chasingalpenglow
It was so great seeing you and eating our way through the Grizzly Cafe menu 🙂
Ray
Your posts more and more sound like you’re a trek vet(eran). And yet there’s still so much more ahead. We’re envious. PS – One thing I’ve learned from fly fishing in remote mountain canyons :: not every close-by rattlesnake shakes his/her rear before striking. Glad you’re trail aware and not eyes down while walking. All our best for your miles ahead . . .
chasingalpenglow
Definitely. I came across a rattlesnake in NM that was lethargic from the cold and I almost stepped on it since it wasn’t rattling
Dianne Wilburn
You handled the snake encounter very well! I don’t do well with snakes!
chasingalpenglow
Thank you! I think it helps that I’ve always admired snakes as a cool animal