Day 28-29: Deep Creek

May 2-3; Mile 281-318

Day 28

When the alarm went off at 5:30, I rolled over and snuggled back into my sleeping bag. Yesterday had been hard on me, my pack full of seven days’ worth of food – including ridiculously heavy items like apples, cheese, and avocados. By 6 I grudgingly started to pack. The longer I waited, the hotter it would be.

The trail wound along the folds of the mountain range, weaving in and out of gullies. It descended through shady pine forest to a horse camp with a pit toilet – right in my hour of need – and crossed the valley floor before climbing the opposite ridge. Near the camp I came across Tinder, DD, and Juniper, and the four of us hiked together until we reached an idyllic lunch spot: a crossing of Holcomb Creek. Shoes came off, feet went in, and we all soaked in the beautiful surroundings.

I stayed behind to let the heat of the day pass; I’d already covered 11 miles and had just 6 more to go. Even with my dallying it was a hot slog through constantly changing terrain: pine forest gave way to grassland, boulders rose in great mounds and were replaced after a mile by stubby cacti. The stagnant afternoon air was redolent with pockets of blooming plants, and I paused in their midst to drink in their scent.

I found a second wind for the last 2 miles, and before I knew it I’d arrived at the bridge spanning Deep Creek. I scampered down the slope and soaked my feet in the cold water. Tinder, DD, and Juniper had been fantasizing about the nearby malt shop during our lunch break, and when I checked for service I had a message from Juniper: “Do you want us to bring you back anything from the malt shop?”

What incredible friends! I felt giddy at the thought of food from town – especially without having to walk the extra 3-4 miles roundtrip to get it. Tinder had stayed behind as well, and the two of us ate our first dinners as a few other hikers arrived. At 7:15 Juniper and DD appeared on the trail above and delivered our burgers like angels come down from heaven. My stomach and heart full, I drifted off to the sound of rushing water for the first time in a long time.

Day 29

I left camp the next morning before the others had started to stir. The trail hugged the top of a ravine as it paralleled Deep Creek far below. The track was edged with long, delicate grasses that swayed in the breeze. As the sun came over the other ridge, I paused to admire the sunlight seeping across the scenery. I looked down to continue walking and noticed a black spot on my pants: a tick! Looking closely at the grass, I spotted another one lounging on the end of a stalk, poised to hitch onto unsuspecting passerby.

After an hour I came upon the 300 mile marker. The day was still cool and shady, and my legs were (relatively) fresh, and I marveled at how each 100 miles had been better than the last. To celebrate I ate the cold leftover fries from the night before – let’s call them breakfast potatoes – and had my actual breakfast of cold oatmeal once I reached the next water source.

Around 10 am I reached the famed Deep Creek hot springs. I had planned a nice long siesta here, and I started out by soaking my feet in the cool, rushing waters of Deep Creek. Next I had a nice nap in the shade, and by then other hikers had started to show up – including day hikers who were mostly naked. After seeing someone in Big Bear Lake with infected blisters and someone else with a skin infection on their shin, I kept my mangled feet far away from the warm pools where revelers soaked. But I did at least dip my hand into two of them, and they were indeed quite warm.

At 2pm I left the oasis and headed back onto the trail. The next stretch was beautifully maintained, likely due to the popularity of the hot springs. There was stonework to prevent erosion, and the trail was wide and flat as it continued near the top of the ravine far above Deep Creek. It was hot and exposed, but I made good time on the easy terrain. I reached a road after 6 miles, and cajoled myself into going another 4ish miles so that I could camp at a spot with a stream. By the time I reached camp I had walked 19.5 miles – with a 3 hour siesta at the hot springs – and I was ready for dinner. It was already 7 pm, and I had just enough time to eat and set up my tent before the darkness descended.