Day 23-25: Mission Creek
April 27-29; Mile 218-266
The PCTA website had stated that 2022 would be a difficult year for thru-hiking due to the two-year backlog of trail maintenance from the pandemic. The trail had certainly lived up to that promise in the San Jacintos, but it was about to outdo itself.
Day 23
Anna made eggs from her hens for breakfast, plus focaccia and strawberries. It was hard to leave the soft bed and comfort of civilized society, but I’d be in Big Bear soon enough.
I left the Reserve behind and hiked along a gentle canyon up to a ridge line – and then back down to Mission Creek! For the next 12 miles the PCT would follow an honest-to-god natural water source.
There was a large tree shading the side of the creek, and several folks lounged for a lunchtime siesta. After stretching and soaking my feet, I happily joined in. And I got to see Shepherd, Charlie Horse, and Butterfly again! After my late start I was antsy to hike again, and so I left after only a 1.5 hour break.
The next section was an exercise in route-finding and patience. The trail had been washed away several times whenever it got close to the creek, and so I had to search for cairns and PCT wooden posts – which look remarkably similar to dead yucca stalks from a distance – in order to stay on track. I was very glad to have experience route-finding while scrambling or backpacking in the Enchantments; one of the folks I’d hiked near the last few days apparently got lost multiple times. It was pretty slow-going, and while the occasional groups of Cottonwood trees offered a nice respite, it was still quite hot and sunny. I was glad to be near a water source – I ended up drinking 6L that day!
Around 5pm my feet were tired and I was ready to be done. My planned camp spot was still about 2 miles away, so I made a quick dinner to give my body’s rest. It definitely helped, and I was able to push through the next section to complete my longest day yet: 17.5 miles! I think all the vegetables definitely helped.
Day 24
My legs felt fatigued in the morning, and the steep climb sure didn’t help. I went for 3 miles before reaching the final crossing of Mission Creek – and the last water source for the next 16 miles. I was joined by Charlie Horse, Butterfly, and Stumble as we all ate our breakfasts and filtered water.
The trail climbed through a burn area, more graveyards of once-magnificent trees, and I had my head down while I puffed my way up the trail. Suddenly I realized it was shady; I’d climbed into a pine forest somewhere above 8000’ and I rejoiced in the soft duff underfoot and the gentler inclines.
I met two new people, Juniper and Stellar, and we all booked rooms in Big Bear Lake at the first spot of cell reception in two days. Juniper mentioned a “Blair Witch Project” cabin up ahead, and we set plans to stop there for lunch.
She and I talked about the mental and emotional challenges of being on trail. She told me of the night she’d still felt like hiking after 21 miles, and how she’d sailed up and down the hills in the dark, the stars and Palm Springs glittering above and below, the Fellowship of the Ring playing out loud to scare away anything lurking nearby. I was in awe. I’d had to shuffle my way to 17 miles the night before – I couldn’t imagine doing 8 more afterward.
We ascended to a ridge and San Gorgonio dominated the view, resplendent against the azure sky in its coat of snow. In the distance another peak slumbered above the roiling clouds that filled its valleys, a delicate dusting of white atop its crown.
The trail had more manmade wonders in store that day. Soon after crossing the 250-mile marker, I came to the fabled zoo where hikers in years past were met with lions, tigers, grizzly bears – all trained for use in the movie industry. The cages were empty now, and someone had spelled out WASTELAND with bones right outside.
I shuffled on toward another 17-mile day so that I’d have a shorter hike into town the next day. I made sure to stretch my weary muscles before setting up camp.
After I finished dinner Ken and two other folks showed up. He came by to ask about my snow experience that I’d mentioned when explaining my trail name. It turns out that he’s a scramble leader for the Mountaineers in Seattle! We exchanged stories about climbs and talked about motivations for being on trail. It was such a great connection!
Day 25
I woke up to the first alpenglow of the trail. The trail descended gradually through the pine forest, a welcome change from the past two days. I reached the water source after 3 miles and didn’t want to stop. I forced myself to sit and make breakfast, but I couldn’t finish eating because I was so cold. Thankfully there was a sun ray up ahead, and I soaked up the warmth as I shoveled cold oatmeal down.
The day stayed chilly as I hiked past sagebrush and cacti, descending away from the pines for now. Lake Baldwin appeared in the hazy distance like a mirage – and in fact it had dried up in recent years. I came across another cooler in the wilderness welcoming PCT hikers to Big Bear. Soon after was a log book for people to sign, and I scanned the past few days’ entries for familiar names.
I’d reached mile 265: 10% of the trail behind me, and still over 2000 miles between me and Canada. But I was starting to feel like a thruhiker. I’d done 12 miles before noon, I had the beginning pangs of “hiker hunger,” and everything I owned was dirty.
I hitched into town with Ken, and we grabbed pizza for lunch before going our separate ways. I spent most of the day at the hostel with other hikers; there were some familiar faces, but the majority were new.
It was sobering to see someone I knew hobble in from Urgent Care because her blisters had gotten infected. After that everyone was scrutinizing their feet and comparing with other hikers.
That night I went out with a great group of folks to karaoke. I sang “I Will Survive” – a good mantra for the months ahead.
20 Comments
Norene Lewis
Seems as though your thru-hiking is picking up speed. Have something to mail you… can you post an address up ahead yet?
chasingalpenglow
Just added the next 2 stops!
Ray
Wonderful narrative, Karen . . . thanks. When do you have time to write your travel notes? And all via your phone? Or are there access waystations in the towns you stop in?
chasingalpenglow
Thanks! I usually scribble down notes in a little paper pad at the end of the day and then transcribe that onto my phone in order to post online. There’s a really nice app (WordPress) that I use to publish the posts when I have wifi since I’m uploading photos
Chris
(This could be a double post) Yes, let us know how we can support you. Traveling with you from my armchair is addicting. Happy to cheer you on, but also happy to materially support you. Looking forward to the ongoing adventure
chasingalpenglow
Thank you!! I’m glad you’re enjoying it. And new socks would probably be a nice thing to send once my current ones wear out. If you send me a text it’s easier to coordinate that way
Dov
This is such a wonderful trail report. It’s clear you’re enjoying yourself, and the pictures are stunning! Such a small mountaineering world, hah! I’m so proud of you, and like Chris I am enjoying vicariously hiking the trail with you.
Dov
And I just noticed the cactus bloom on the second read-through. How beautiful!
chasingalpenglow
I’m used to meeting mountaineers in Seattle, but this was unexpected!
Rob
I am so proud of you and i get so excited reading your posts. Love the rattling bush, always wanted to see one live in nature, but at a distance. You are such an amazing writer, love your pictyures! Big Bear was great when Summer and i visited, small quaint town. Sending positive energy and angels to accompany you on your journey.
chasingalpenglow
Thanks!! Big Bear felt huge after the tiny towns of Julian and Idyllwild 🙂
Sherryl
Up here at our cabin in the North Woods of Wisconsin enjoying catching up on your blog!!! Love love love your stories and living vicariously though you. Keep writing and enjoying. Bugs hugs to you!! ❤️
chasingalpenglow
Thank you Sherryl! I hope you are doing well and enjoying the woods back home
Sheila
well, Stormy 😉 I used to think of you as a gazelle leaping along the trail, vanishing off in the distance ahead of me, but since I grew up reading about Misty of Chincoteague and her foal Stormy, now I’ll think of you as a long-legged filly instead, kicking up your heels, prancing, and at times galloping playfully along the trail 🙂 ( I thought you might enjoy a different impression of your trail name 😉 ) It sounds like things are only getting better, and I’m sure pretty soon you’ll be burning through 20 mile days! just make sure to eat enough to fuel those miles! and, as others have said, I also really appreciate that you’re taking the time to let us follow you in your journey!
Jack Shlachter
So glad you got to see some alpenglow! We’re enjoying following your travels vicariously, and your photos are stunning! Keep on trucking.
chasingalpenglow
Haha thanks for the different spin. And I’m having two dinners tonight, so hopefully those 20-milers aren’t too far off
Aalap
Congrats on finishing a hard 10% of the PCT – truly remarkable with difficult trail and shoe conditions! So happy to hear that you succesfully chased Alpenglow 🙂 Such a treat reading about your adventures – the write-ups are fantastic with a great level of details. Love the smiling pics – and all the flora, fauna & wild scenery. Happy trails!
chasingalpenglow
Thank you! I got to see some more interesting wildlife: a tarantula! Stay tuned for the full story 😉
Grandma
Hi Karen! Really enjoyed reading your posts and seeing your incerdible pictures. Your Uncle Rick is expecting a book to come out of this adventure, since your writing is so interesting. Keep up the effort and hope that everything goes as planned.
chasingalpenglow
Aww thank you! I’m so glad you both are enjoying the photos and narrative 🙂