Day 13-14: Anza-Borrego Desert
April 17-18; Mile 119-146
Day 13
I’d reached the section of trail where water sources were either tiny springs at least 1/4 mile off trail or metal tanks maintained by people living nearby. I had 8 miles until I reached Mike’s place – the first of the water tanks – and so I started hiking by 6:15 to get there before the lunchtime heat.
The trail wove past several stubby summits rising like turrets of a great stone fortress. The hillsides were strewn with pale boulders and California lilac bushes, and the track slipped right between the two so that I was forever bushwhacking past scraping rock and snagging branches.
It was already sweltering by 9 without a hint of a breeze. Thankfully the trail dipped below the ridge line and into shade until I reached the turnoff for water. At the tanks people said Mike was there that day and had fresh watermelon!
Intrigued, Christine and I walked down to investigate. Not only was there fresh watermelon, but oranges, bananas, cold beer – and later hot pizza and hot dogs! We stayed for 4 hours as more hikers sweated their way down the hill to join the Easter oasis.
I sat next to a guy who went by the name Bliss and said “10 milligrams and a Grateful Dead concert” were what allowed him to crank out an extra 6-7 miles after dinner. And then there was Jake the Snake who was manning the grill. He was determined to catch, cook, and eat a rattlesnake while on trail (This was no whim – he’d contacted the Department of Fish and Wildlife as well as researching land use regulations).
Around 2pm we left to return to trail for (hopefully) cooler temps. A light breeze had picked up, and it certainly made the next 3 mile climb more bearable. In the distance I could see white at the top of the mountains. If those were the peaks I thought they were (San Jacintos), I’d be there in just a few days.
Christine and I descended to our camp spot after a 13 mile day. It was the perfect little nook big enough for our two tents and a cooking area. The ground was soft and sandy, and I passed around barefoot, the cool sand like a salve against my hot, swollen feet.
When I was stuck in Warner Springs, I’d told myself I could do just 10 miles each day on the way to Idyllwild. Without a group to stick with, I’d allow myself to go as slow as I needed. But after 13 miles I was feeling far better than a few days ago. I wasn’t shuffling and stopping every half hour in the afternoon. I wasn’t shattered at the end of the day. I was getting stronger, my feet tougher, and I was looking forward to the San Jacintos.
Day 14
My alarm jolted me awake from the middle of a dream, and I drowsily set about getting ready: taping my feet, changing into hiking clothes, packing up my gear. It was still dark but the sun would be up in less than an hour, and today was promising to be another scorcher.
I descended the 4 miles to Tule Spring junction, another off-trail water source, and while walking the road with Jenna we found a gallon of water cached with “Filter!!” written across it. Someone had brought extra water up from the spring, and we happily filled up and avoided the off-trail detour. It was the first of several early birthday gifts from the trail.
Not long after that I got to see my first snake on trail (it was just a garter snake, still no rattlers). It was gone in a flash, but my grin continued long past then.
The trail began to climb in earnest after I’d already covered 8 miles. It was 10:30 and I saw a perfect bush with a large boulder beneath its shade: siesta time. I ended up staying until 2:30 and was joined by Christine for a while. Everyone hiking past our spot looked haggard in the heat. Meanwhile I enjoyed a long lunch and made hot chocolate in my titanium pot just from placing it in the intense sun.
As the sun moves so does the shade, and I found myself cuddled closer to the bush’s pointy branches by the hour. It was time to face the elements. I had 4.5 miles to go before the next water source: a tank maintained by Mary. I arrived by 4:30 to another oasis, with picnic tables and a sunshade and a little free library!
But the best part of the day was en route to Mary’s place, when I got to see my first rattlesnake of the trail! It politely slithered aside into a bush, its rattle held aloft with pride, so that I could pass. What a beautiful creature.
Back at Mary’s place I made dinner with the other hikers and washed my socks. Everyone was planning how they would stage themselves for the Paradise Valley Cafe the next morning. Most of the folks hiked into the sunset to setup a mile from the cafe, but Christine and I only planned another mile that night so that we’d cover the remaining 6 miles the next morning. I was going to earn my birthday meal.
17 Comments
Dov
Those are such beautiful flowers that you’re seeing. I didn’t know there were golden yellow prickly pear varieties. The fresh watermelon sounds heavenly. It sounds like a really excellent birthday on trail!
chasingalpenglow
Yes, they are so pretty!
Ray
Aunt Norene and I thought/talked about you quite a bit on your birthday . . . mostly in admiration of your pluck and tenacity. You’re wonderfully attuned to all the big and small things in the environment. Astounding beauty, isn’t it? Keep your photos coming, please . . .
chasingalpenglow
Aww thank you! The desert has been unexpectedly varied and beautiful for sure. I’m glad you’re enjoying the photos
Sheila
I’m so glad to read your latest reports, and that you are STILL. THERE.
and, step by step, coming home the LOOONG way 😉
<3
chasingalpenglow
It’s a great poem; one of the hikers did a dramatic reading while we were all sitting around. Not quite Andy-level, but still good 🙂
kate bowman
A few things stood out from the general excellentness of your post: the Trail Angel poem, which makes me want to go out and walk a lot; the Little Free Library and its notice of “Books you don’t need in a place you can’t find”. When my kids went away to college and/or new jobs in new cities, one of their first actions was to find the closest library. You managed to find one, and with an owl to go with it! Your photos are always magnificent; the ones of the trail disappearing around a bend draw the mind and the eye, and make me want to see around that next corner…
chasingalpenglow
There were also life-size cutouts of Whitman, Muir, and Thoreau!
peggy
I love the little oases and supports from folks along that way; also that you’ve gotten to a point where the trip is more enjoyable. Lovely flowers … my mom did a painting of yellow prickly pear blossoms like that.
chasingalpenglow
I really enjoy seeing all the cactus blooms! And the generosity of strangers is so heartening
Jack Shlachter
I SOOO enjoy the photos and text! It always makes me feel guilty to go grab something to drink and put my feet up while relaxing in comfort right after reading about your challenges. Thanks for allowing us to participate vicariously. Keep up the great job!
chasingalpenglow
Thank you for reading along!! And the weekly messages 🙂
Ann Taft
Happy Birthday Karen, it sounds amazing and good work by those trail angels! Glad your feet are doing better.
chasingalpenglow
Thank you Ann!
Karen Altergott
Karen, Uncle Rudy and I are thinking of you every day. Your posts are beautifully written (of course!) and genuine, and the photos are proof of nature’s magnificence. Thank you for sharing. We’re with you all the way.
Aunt Karen
chasingalpenglow
Aww thanks so much! I’m glad to have you with me 🙂
Dov
We hereby convene the meeting of the Fellowship of the Karens Altergott 😀