Day 129-130: Mt Hood

August 11-12; Mile 2088-2128

Day 129

In northern Oregon, the PCT passes next to the iconic Timberline Lodge below Mt Hood. Thruhikers look forward to the stop for months – not for the views, the architectural wonder, or the $500/night rooms. What we seek is the buffet.

My camp spot had set me back too far to reach the Lodge for breakfast, and as I set out from camp I considered skipping the side trip entirely. The trail led up steep, sandy climbs with views toward the glacial outflow streams flowing off the mountain. It was hard work in the heat, and I struggled upward, stopping repeatedly to take pictures (and rest).

The lodge appeared in the distance, growing closer as the clock approached 11:30 am. I decided to stop by to fill up my water, and maybe I’d stay for an hour or so. Two hikers I’d seen earlier in the day waved to me as I shuffled down the steps toward the lodge. I asked if they were staying for lunch, and when I found out it was possible to walk up without a reservation, I was in.

I was seated with three other hikers I’d never met – Squeezy, Sunnyside, and Otmar – and we loaded up our plates. Tender beef, five different salads, fresh fruit, mini cupcakes… my plate was filled before I was halfway through.

After we’d stuffed ourselves, I spent a little time walking around the lodge, admiring the woodwork and art. But I still had many miles to go, and so I tore myself away from the comfort and hiked out into the sun. Mt Hood towered above, while the last skiers of the season shredded the thin run of snow upon its flank.

The trail led past waterfalls and steep gulleys, while Mt Jefferson loomed silently in the distance. I began switchbacking down to the glacial creek crossing, glad that there were other hikers also crossing. The rocks upstream were too far apart, and so I ended up sloshing through the silty water, soaking my socks and shoes. The second crossing had a log across, and the water raged just below, frothing and splashing with unbridled energy.

I finally reached camp after dark and set up my tent. There was a log crossing over the creek to the north; I’d save that for the morning.

Day 130

I woke to a chilly morning. Once I was safely across the log, the trail began to climb. At the first water source I met Sparkle Lizard and Knee Deep, and we spent the day leapfrogging each other.

I hiked through trees for most of the day, being treated to a nice view of Mt Hood in a small clearing. It was awesome to see how far I’d come since yesterday, and yet I felt my motivation ebbing. It had been over four months, and I just didn’t feel like hiking anymore that day.

Soon after I got my first view of Mt Adams, and there was a spark of excitement. I was so close to Washington, so close to home, but mostly I was just glad to see something familiar after a third of a year.

I ate a second lunch with Ballsack and the two guys I’d met at the water. It felt like I hadn’t eaten lunch on trail with other folks in weeks, and I almost teared up when I told Sparkle Lizard how empty Oregon had been, and how nice it was to be around other people again.

They hiked on ahead of me, and then I entered the blowdown stretch from a windstorm in 2020. My ankle caught on one of the stubby branches as I was scrambling over a large tree, and I cried out in pain. I tried putting my weight on it, and it throbbed unhappily. The trail swam ahead of me as I wiped away tears and limped forward. At the next tree I got down on my knees to crawl underneath and smashed my head into a branch as I was standing up, my hat blocking it from view.

I proceeded to sob my way up the trail in a mixture of pain, frustration, and loneliness. The last few miles before camp were pretty flat, but I was hurting. At a flat area I paused to listen to some music and rest. I finally reached camp and saw Ballsack and Knee Deep making dinner with another hiker named Shredder. At least my final night in Oregon would be spent with other hikers. And soon I’d be relaxing in Stevenson with Dov for a hard-earned break.

Tomorrow I’d walk into Washington.