Day 134-137: Green Tunnel
August 16-19; Mile 2148-2224
Day 134
Dov and I drove back to the Bridge of the Gods in the late morning. After dragging my feet, I finally set off up the trail into the trees.
The air was thick and hot – with temperatures forecasted to reach 100 degrees the next two days – and my shirt was drenched in minutes. Without a breeze to lift the moisture, it stayed wet the rest of the day, and I felt like I was hiking through an aquatic center.
The trail led past clear cuts and quarries – not the prettiest welcome for hikers entering Washington. But the empty stretches offered nice views of Adams, St Helen’s, Rainier, and Hood. They were a welcome sight after hours of hiking through dense forest.
I set up my tent alongside two other solo hikers after a short day of hiking. We were perched on a ridge with nice views of the volcanoes, and I watched the sunset stain the sky pink from inside my tent before drifting off to sleep.
Day 135
When I left camp the next morning, the sky was salmon-colored just above the horizon. As I began to descend, the trail slipped back into the trees. At the water source I ran into a few folks I’d met before: Mermaid and Feathers, and later Radio and Whistler.
The hikers weren’t the only familiar faces; I’d finally reached a part of the PCT that I’d hiked before. In 2018 I had done a 10-mile hike with the Seattle Mountaineers up to Sedum Point, and as I reached the turn-off, I took the side trail up to the view point. The bald spot was blistering in the noon sun, and the tiny scrap of shade from one of the stunted trees barely took the edge off. Despite the steep climb up, I bailed after 10 minutes and continued on to an abandoned forest road for a shady lunch spot.
I’d made the “mistake” of downloading a book that I really enjoyed; every 5-minute break stretched to 15 or 20 as I inevitably took out the book and read a chapter or three.
At last I reached the road with the campground where I’d planned to stay for the night. Several hikers were setting up tents in the PCT site, and someone brought over a box of frozen popsicles as we made dinner. It was a wonderful treat after slogging through the humid heat all day.
Day 136
At last the heat began to abate. Clouds offered welcome shade as I began the day with a long, waterless climb. The trail would ascend over 5000’ before I stopped for the night, and I spent much of the day listening to music and reading my book during breaks. After 50-something miles of dense trees, I was ready for a break from the green tunnel. But views in this section were few and far between.
I hiked past a few ponds where the bugs were thankfully not too bad. I reached camp by 6, choosing a single spot beside the trail. Dinner was uninspiring, and I thought wistfully about the vegetables that I missed eating. Then I finished my book and went to sleep early.
Day 137
After an hour of hiking I reached a ridge line with views toward the Washington volcanoes, and I stopped for breakfast with a view. The spot also offered some spotty reception, and I was able to call Dov (and more importantly, request the next book after the one I’d just finished).
A few miles later I passed Blue Lake – the first hike I’d ever done on the PCT. I spotted the log where we’d taken pictures, the PCT sign on one of the trees that I’d admired, the peninsula where I’d seen backpackers setting up their tents. Seven years had passed since then, but I still remembered thinking on that day that I wanted to come back and camp there.
As I hiked on, the trees remained just as dense and green as the last three days. At least the clouds were helping to keep the heat down. Biting flies swarmed me during lunch, and I spent the afternoon hiking in my bugnet pants.
At the next trailhead there was excellent trail magic! A group of friends had set up tents with a grill, chairs, and tons of food. I had tacos, fresh watermelon, cold lemonade; it was difficult not to spend the rest of the day relaxing in the shade and gorging myself on real food.
At the next road crossing, there was another cache of chips left for hikers. Clearly people knew how tough this section could be mentally. Though there weren’t stunning views to enjoy, at least there was food.
My feet ached during the last five miles, and as soon as I reached camp I went to the creek to ice my poor feet. It helped tremendously. Several other hikers joined, as we were only five miles from the road into town. Tomorrow we’d head to Trout Lake, where I hoped I’d run into some friends that had been just ahead of me.
17 Comments
Kate
It’s nice for us that we can’t see the bugs and humidity; it just looks cool, green, and welcoming. I’m sorry that the reality is different. Some people reading your posts are probably becoming inspired to do similar trail experiences. I, however, and becoming inspired to become a trail angel. Providing cold beverages, fruit, cheese, and shade for hot, tired hikers seems right up my alley.
Enjoy the home stretch!
Norene Lewis
I like the idea of a Trail Angel Vacation. The beauty of the surroundings, the pleasure of making some hikers’ hard day a little easier… Worth exploring…
Dov
Your pictures certainly paint a very welcoming picture of the introduction to Washington. Especially the last photo 🙂 Trail angeling is such a hoot! It definitely seems like there’s a friendly competition to provide the most elaborate and exquisite experience.
It was hard to drop you back off on trail. I am so ready to have you back home.
Tom
Your fifteen minutes of viewing pleasure each day during this stretch, albeit it brief vs your “wooded tunneling” time, still has provided you with incredibly hard-to-reach beauty that the rest of us can only experience through your exquisite photos. The landscapes that you are describing and displaying are nothing that we midwesterners can relate to where we are limited to walking/hiking through forest preserves, arboretums (and seasonal corn mazes?) that are lacking in the diversity of flora and altitude that you are pushing through daily, no make that hourly. Thank you for sharing nature’s majesty with us. And seeing your backpack againt the giant tree trunk makes me miss both of our elm trees in the parkway even more. Love you always, Dad
chasingalpenglow
Seasonal corn mazes – haha. I miss our elm trees too
Mike
What book did you read?
chasingalpenglow
I was just re-reading a favorite series from when I was a kid. This section I read “Rising Storm” which takes place in a heatwave and builds up to a wildfire. The descriptions of the blazing hot forest really mirrored my daily suffering 🙂
Karen Altergott
Dear Karen. Your posts are always a treat and the photos you share are just majestic. You are a true hero, Niece. I think of you often during my own wonderfully ordinary days, and you remind me to appreciate all the little things I can take for granted: a cold drink of water with ice, sweet watermelon, cool breezes, stars, dry clothes, flowers, birdsong, nature, laughter, a good book, a good night’s sleep, and “home.”
Thank you for that and for being exactly who you are, Karen.
Love,
Aunt Karen
chasingalpenglow
<3 thank you! I’ll be around Chicago at the end of Sept and would love to get together if you’re free
Dana
I know what book(s) you’ve been reading! (Having to do with cats, perhaps?) The tomatoes are ripe here, in our continuing 100+ degree days. Everytime I eat a tomato sandwich and a hard boiled egg for dinner I think of you, dear friend! Happy trails to you, until we meet again…
chasingalpenglow
Thanks! I hope the heat breaks soon
Ray
Uplifting to see you consorting with trees . . . BIG trees . . . again. The scents of firs and pines must be a bit intoxicating after all the firelands and scraggy deserts. Seems like home.
chasingalpenglow
It is very nice to see some big, old trees after all the burn areas
john s
Possible sighting – CHS alums were hiking Kendall and a Thru-Hiker had recognized their hat. If it was you, oh my gosh you’re close to the Northern Terminus. I’m headed back out there this weekend with another group. Guess we won’t see you but maybe, maybe, you’ll give a presentation after everything settles down? thanks john s
chasingalpenglow
Yes, that was me 🙂 I was wondering how long it would take to run into a Mountaineers group on trail. I’d be happy to give a presentation about the trail, not sure what forum is best though. I’m open to suggestions
Mike G.
Karen,
I was wondering how your trek was going realizing you must be getting close. I spent the last two nights reading from the beginning of your journey and I’m exhausted and I didn’t move an inch. Wow what a feat. Amazing and you’ve shared all of it highs and lows so vividly. You write beautifully. As I’m writing this I’m hearing out the window some Whatcom County coyotes singing. You can probably hear them too. Hang in there cousin. Your such an inspiration. Thank you.
chasingalpenglow
Aww thanks! I really enjoyed visiting you last spring, and would love to get together once I’m all done