Day 71-72: Selden Pass and Silver Pass

June 14-15; Mile 855-893

Day 71

Somehow I woke up almost an hour after my alarm, and most of the group was already gone. After the long slog the day before, I figured that my body needed the extra rest. Juniper and I hiked through forest along a gentle trail before climbing up to a nice creek with rocks for resting during a snack break. We spent most of the day hiking together, and since she had done this section recently she let me know when a particularly nice view or lake were coming up.

We passed the shores of Heart Lake before climbing up to a bird’s eye view of its blue waters. The climb to the top of the pass was laughable compared to the day before: there was still a few thousand feet of ascent, but none of the navigation or snow challenges from the day before.

At the top I found my friends sitting and enjoying the view, and before long Stevie (now called Fun Fact) joined us and I was able to chat with him for the first time since Idyllwild. Juniper and I finished our lunches and hiked down to Marie Lake, whose sparkling waters were so inviting that I jumped in.

The trail descended away from the pass through junipers and ponderosa pines. Near the bottom we came to the next major creek ford: Bear Creek. Juniper and I unbuckled our packs and strapped on our sandals before heading across. The water was deeper than Evolution Creek, but slower and warmer.

We began the ascent up Bear Ridge, stopping halfway up at the planned campspot. Everyone set up their tents in the sloped clearing and then gathered in a circle on the ground for dinner. I was so happy to be surrounded by friends both new and old, and as we all retreated to our tents for the evening, the sun stained the peaks across the valley bright pink. I watched the alpenglow fade as I inflated my sleeping pad, and then I turned in for the night.

Day 72

I finished packing early that morning and said goodbye to the group as I passed. They were planning to take the trail to Vermillion Valley Resort, while Juniper and I were continuing straight to Mammoth Lakes. The day began with the remaining climb up Bear Ridge, which was pleasant in the morning shade. Then I descended to Mono Creek and the first of many submerged crossings. Too impatient to keep switching to sandals, I plunged across all of them and ended up with wet feet all day.

After the relatively easy Selden Pass climb, Silver Pass was rough. The trail was incredibly steep in places and chock-full of sharp rocks and boulders. Every time I paused to catch my breath, the mosquitos would swarm in full force. My mood deteriorated and I pushed myself up the mountain in a quiet rage.

I passed waterfalls and climbed high above the creek, coming to a wide basin with mirror-like ponds reflecting the small mountains around me. Small patches of snow dotted the trail, and I wove upward until I reached the pass – which for some reason wasn’t even the high point of the climb. When I finally stumbled upon the top, I was emotionally and physically spent. Anger was a potent fuel, but it only worked in short bursts.

I ate lunch with a group of hikers I hadn’t met before as I let my feet and shoes dry out. Someone had spelled out 33.3% in rocks nearby – we were already a third of the way through the trail. Meanwhile I was feeling 100% done with the Sierras and their steep climbs. Juniper caught up, and the two of us descended through the snow and rocks until we reached a gushing creek. Another tough climb lay between us and our planned camp spot.

Near the top of the climb was idyllic Lake Virginia. The water was ringed with a wide expanse of soft grass. The granite peaks of the nearby range seemed distant and somewhat subdued. I sighed to leave such a beautiful spot, but I had two more miles to go.

Purple Lake was ensconced in a small granite cirque where the cliffs disappeared straight into the water. Juniper and I ate dinner in our rain gear as the bugs launched their assault, and we talked about the negative thoughts that had followed us throughout the day. It had been a long, hard 20 miles, and we went to bed early. As I lay in my tent and snuggled into my sleeping bag, I watched the evening alpenglow. I was ready for a town stop, but mostly I yearned to reach Sonora Pass and see Dov.