Day 66: Kearsarge Pass and Glen Pass
June 9; Mile 788-794 + 8
That morning as Finja and I were packing our bags, Nicole seemed to be burrowing deeper into the sheets. And then she told us that she’d decided to stay another day in town. So the two of us set off to get the bus to Independence and then to ride with the trail angel that Nicole had contacted.
The hike down Kearsarge had filled me with trepidation for the return trip: I had eight days of food weighing me down as I spent hours climbing up trail that got me no closer to Canada. And yet the views of the lakes along the way were beautiful, and it felt good to climb away from the suffocating heat. But the best part was passing friends that were on their way into town: Tim, Ken, Tinder, Trash Balloon, Portal, Juice.
I took a long lunch break at a stream before rejoining the PCT. Though it was already afternoon, I decided to push onward to Glen Pass since snow levels were low. The trail climbed ever higher through a narrow valley with ice-covered ponds. Then I began the familiar switchbacks that came right before the high point. I reached the top around 4pm and ran into Petra. She waited while I ate a snack so that we could descend together.
There was one steep snow traverse at the beginning, and we were both glad to have company. I took my time, but the snow was fairly firm and the boot path was well-worn. We scrambled over rock when the path disappeared under snow further down, spending the time talking about the Czech Republic and our careers.
The trail dropped down to Rae Lakes, a string of beautiful water spots with tiny islands peeking out of the sapphire expanse. We forded one of the outlet streams, but didn’t stop for long since the mosquitos were beginning to swarm.
At the lower lake we set up our tents, and my failing zippers decided that this was the perfect time to give up. My tent filled with huge mosquitos as I uselessly pulled the zippers back and forth. Frustrated and unable to do anything, I ate my dinner alone while silently fuming. I ended up sleeping inside my tent with a bug net over my face and woke up covered in bites.
9 Comments
Dov
That water crossing photo looks a lot like the Enchantments. The towering, alpine majesty is so beautiful. So sorry your tent gave up the ghost, but now the replacement should make things better. I hope you’re still having a good time!
kate
I also noticed the Enchantments similarity. I figured that would trigger some nostalgic joy to counter the bugs, at least a little.
Jack Shlachter
You certainly look triumphant! You could have told me it was Everest and I’d have believed it (until I pulled out an atlas and realized that Everest is not on the conventional trails in the western United States).
chasingalpenglow
Oh yes, the Sierras are like the Enchatments on an epic scale
Sheila
In the other direction, iirc, Glen Pass is famous for having at least two “false summits” that you think you’re reaching before you finally get to the real one — it sounds like it was more straightforward coming from the south-side. And aren’t the Rae Lakes gorgeous?!
And I wanted to say that it is SOOOOO amazing and impressive to look at your accumulated campsite points on the mapshare now. Hike on in good spirts and health! xoxo
chasingalpenglow
Meanwhile the descent was just a jumble of rock scrambling and snow – sure wouldn’t want to go up that right now. And thank you!! I’ll need to check out my own blog page every once in a while
Ray
So now the trail pest checklist includes mosquitoes . . . the big ones . . . and likely for the rest of the journey. But just an annoyance aligned against the beauty of your surroundings. Wish we could actually hear the music of the outlet streams, the wind rushing through the landscape and the crunch of your shoes on the trail. Good luck on your next steps . . .
chasingalpenglow
I’ve been taking some videos with my GoPro, so whenever I get around to compiling that into something watchable, I’ll be sure to share it with you!
Grandma
Sorry to hear about all your mosquito bites- made me itch! Love your pictures.
Grandma