Day 3-4: Laguna Mountains
April 7-8; Mile 23-48
Day 3
When people say the desert is windy, they mean the serious, knock-you-over type of wind that halts a grown adult in their tracks. Sleeping on a ridge line in a thin single-walled tent amidst the wind was awe-inspiring. And incredibly loud.
At 6:30 I started walking through verdant slopes with sweeping views of Lake Morena behind and the Laguna Mountains looming in the distance. We passed through a sea of grass under the Highway 94 bridge, walking headfirst into near-constant gusts.
Soon we arrived at Boulder Oaks campground for water and relaxing. I met OneSpeed -the wife of the PCT shuttle driver- as she told us about the trail ahead. Then it was time to start climbing. I took my time picking my way uphill on the rocky tread since my right foot had started to blister.
Our next water source was Kitchen Creek, a small ribbon of brownish hue 100 feet below the trail. We relaxed in the sun, soaking our feet in the icy water, before climbing back to the trail to head another few miles by lunch.
I soon regretted leaving the oasis as the hot sun beat down on the exposed slopes. The wind gusts offered a cool relief, but they often blew so hard that I was careening sideways.
I finally reached the meeting spot – a sign warning of unexploded devices in the area – around 12:30. We set off again at 1:30 and I was feeling better after eating, but my feet still sent stabs of pain. Kelsey and I brought up the rear and went a little slower, taking a nice break in the shade every hour.
We reached camp and I was done – we had covered over 14 miles and 3000’ of elevation gain. We crammed 7 tents and 4 cowboy setups into a 3-tent site and spent the next few hours chatting and cooking dinner.
Suddenly there was a buzz from near the group of girls. “Is that a taser?” I called.
And it was! Freda had a lightweight taser because her host family had said “you can’t go out there without a weapon.” That got a laugh from the camp.
As soon as the sun slipped behind the trees everyone receded into their tents and sleeping bags. Tomorrow we would head to Mt Laguna. I thought if I could just make it until the gear shop in Julian – about 40 miles north – then I’d be able to fix my shoe/sock problem and stop the desert bloom of blisters across my right foot.
Day 4
I woke up after a good night’s sleep feeling like a new person. The moonlight had been keeping me awake, but my buff came to the rescue as a makeshift eye cover. I slept in until 6:15, getting on trail before 7. I passed fields of grass strewn with the remnants of dead oak trees – many offering the perfect height for sitting to rest my feet. The blisters were not much better in the morning, and every right step sent three stabs of pain up my leg.
Stevie and Evan caught up to me, and we all walked into Mt Laguna for breakfast at Pine House cafe. We chatted with the folks sitting next to us: a woman thru-hiking with her two kids. They had already done most of the Appalachian trail when the son was only 6!
After eating a delicious chocolate croissant, eggs, toast, and potatoes, it was time for my first true resupply at Mt Laguna Lodge. And then we were back on trail at 11:15 – once more heading into the heat. We had 6 more waterless miles until camp, but as I walked the trail opened up to sweeping views northeast toward the Salton Sea and the arid desert surrounding it. Looking back at the greenery and pine trees along the trail, I was certainly glad I wasn’t hiking over there.
My feet deteriorated in the heat and I was barely keeping up a 2mph pace on the flat sections. With about a mile left to reach camp I spotted Stevie and Evan on the trail ahead. We exchanged waves, I took a few more steps, and then pure agony gripped my pinky toe.
I ripped off my shoe and sock on the narrow trail and saw liquid oozing from beneath the tape. The blister had engulfed my entire toe, and now part of it had popped. It was 2pm – not a scrap of shade in sight – and I still had 0.8 miles to reach camp. I sat down and smothered my toe in triple antibiotic cream, wrapped it in gauze and tape, and tried to walk. I could barely manage a hobble. Desperate, I took off my too-tight shoe and walked the rest of the way in my $3 knock-off crocs.
That night was so much fun at camp. We moved with the tree shadows, exchanged snacks, and laughed as Freda tried to rub her pot clean with dirt (“I heard sand can help get it clean and I want the full trail experience!”). I didn’t want to split up from such a great group. But I needed to save my feet or else my thru-hike would be over. Hitching to Julian was my only hope.
23 Comments
Dov
Limping into town is usually a little more metaphorical than this. So glad to hear that your foot situation has a resolution. The pictures are stunning! Keep up the great photography work!
chasingalpenglow
Thanks! The scenery certainly helps
Therese Altergott
I love your photos – you’re traveling through some mighty gorgeous terrain! Your blister sounds pretty painful. Hope it heals quickly so you can be on your way again before too long.
chasingalpenglow
Thanks! The desert truly is such variable terrain
Sheila
oh Karen! take extra good care of your feet and please post an update soon! I know you’ll get this figured out — sending lots of love
chasingalpenglow
Thanks, I’m hoping to give them a rest the next few days
Tom Altergott
Karen, I hope you can find a solution to your blister problem soon. Sounds awful. Your photos from the trail so far are fabulous. Glad to see you are having fun with the other hikers.
chasingalpenglow
I’m glad you like the photos!
Megan
Karen! I love reading about your experience, and seeing photos of the trail. So cool that you’ve already found great people on the trail to keep you company. That blister situation sounds absolutely awful – really hoping you’ve been able to get relief since you posted this. Thinking about you!
chasingalpenglow
Aww thanks for reading!
Ray
Toe blisters are sometime trip breakers . . . so get the attention you need, even if it means a longer rest stop, please. (PS :: Your photos are super. The one of multihued tents pressed close together reminds me of an Easter egg basket (timely!).
chasingalpenglow
So far they are on the mend. I recently acquired some leukotape and duct tape to replace my medical tape that wasn’t great. You were right about the usefulness of duct tape 😉
Carole Jacobson
I love your pictures as I so love desert.
As a half century plus victim of blisters, take care of yourself.
Carole
chasingalpenglow
I’m really enjoying the desert – I see why you both love the Anza Borrego area
Dorothy
I’m enjoying your updates, what an amazing adventure!
Norene Lewis
Love the photos, Karen. Although only someone as young and strong as you would follow up a painful limp into camp with, “The night was so much fun at camp.” Shall I send some socks to your next rendezvous point? What kind?
chasingalpenglow
I think new sock after a few weeks would be really nice. I’ll send you an email to let you know what kind has been working
Aalap
Hope your toe heals up quickly, great to hear you had a fun night at camp nonetheless. Wonderful description and photos, feels like we’re along for the ride! I think cleaning with sand is OK in low-water conditions?
Soma
Loved reading your posts Karen. Great photos 😊. Great to see you found some great company and someone with a taser 😜. Hope your toe heals quickly and you feel better soon. Have a wonderful adventure. Looking forward to reading your future posts.
Peggy
Wow – just catching up on your trek, admiring the solutions on the heat and dry-camp issues and your fellow-traveler compatibility; also admiring the photos but aching for your blister problems. Sounds like you have options in mins … silicone gel toe caps a possible additional option?
chasingalpenglow
Thankfully after taking it easy the main blister has started to form a callous, and I’ve been using leukotape for the others with pretty good results
Grandma
Hi, Kar3n
Have enjoyed your pictures. Sorry about the blisters, hope they are healing. All is well here.
Love, Grandma
chasingalpenglow
Hi Grandma, thanks for reading! I hope you had a great birthday 🙂